This evening, titled Echo in the Night Vol.33 — Essence of Kyoto Water, placed the spotlight on an often overlooked yet essential element: Kyoto’s soft water.
At the beginning of the event, the master presented two glasses of water and invited guests to guess which one came from Kyoto. Poured into different vessels, it revealed its character subtly — and most guests identified it correctly.
Kyoto’s water is regarded as one of the gentlest in Japan. Its low mineral content allows the sake to become more delicate and supple, while guiding fermentation toward a more graceful expression. This “softness” is not a lack of personality, but rather a quiet unfolding of flavor.
Throughout the evening, the pairings progressed in layers — from clean and elegant freshness to sweetness, rice aromatics, creaminess, and finally a warm finish.
Welcome Sake
Tsukinokatsura “Hōfuku Zettō”
A low-alcohol sake at just 8%. The acidity and sweetness are beautifully balanced, carrying a hint of grape-like fruitiness with a subtle trace of natural rice sweetness.
First Pour
Awakening of Early Spring
Kinshi Masamune Junmai Daiginjo
Compact in structure, focused in flavor, and highly versatile with food. When paired with vegetables and scallops, it amplified the natural sweetness of the ingredients. The sake acted almost like a mirror, giving greater dimensionality to both the seafood and greens.
Second Pour
Yosamusume Tokubetsu Junmai
Light-bodied with a gentle note of honeydew melon. Paired with specially prepared Wakasa fish and trout sushi, it softened any brininess while enhancing the umami. A very Kyoto expression — not built on contrast, but on refinement and clarity.
Third Pour
Tsukinokatsura Yanagi
Creamy on the palate with a faint smokiness, layered with aromas of melon and a touch of citrus. It accompanied lightly torched bluefin tuna sashimi, deliberately grilled by the chef to echo and deepen the sake’s smoky nuances.
Fourth Pour
Tsukinokatsura Nigori
A pleasantly surprising cloudy sake with pronounced lactic notes and fine bubbles — the original sparkling sake first developed by the brewery, now reimagined in an updated version that enhances the savoriness of rice itself. Its fruitiness, natural sweetness, and gentle bitterness were captivating. Paired with Shogoin daikon and pen shell clam, the sake’s silky texture rounded out the shellfish’s sweetness beautifully.
Fifth Pour
Kuminoura Junmai Daiginjo
Marked by a distinct banana aroma. When served alongside grilled sardines and sudachi-scented Inaniwa udon, the sake cleansed the oiliness while preserving the fish’s umami.
Sixth Pour
Tsukinokatsura Iwai 88
The celebratory sake of the evening. “Iwai” signifies celebration, while “88” refers to the polishing ratio — the rice milled to a refined degree, resulting in a more focused structure and reduced heaviness. Paired with Kyoto rice-flour tempura burdock, the sake remained light yet layered. The earthy tones of the burdock were lifted, leaving a clean and refreshing finish.
Seventh Pour
Haneda Rikyu Junmai Daiginjo (Warm)
The evening concluded with warmed sake. Heating brought forward a subtle spiciness while maintaining its lightness. Paired with yudofu (tofu in dashi broth), the rice aromatics became more pronounced — like a quiet curtain call.
In Kyoto cuisine, warmed sake is never an aggressive statement; it is a return to essence. To complete the banquet, two varieties of rolled sushi and dessert followed as a final flourish.
The most striking common thread of the evening was softness.
Sake brewed with Kyoto’s soft water carries no sharp acidity nor heavy mineral edge. Instead, it unfolds gently, allowing the cuisine to remain the protagonist. From banana and melon notes to creaminess, smoke, and hints of nuttiness, each pour spoke softly yet with clear layers.
This was a dinner about water — and about restraint and elegance.
In Kyoto, even alcohol knows how to speak in a lowered voice.
