Less than an hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen, Atami offers a refreshing change of pace from the capital. Long known as one of Japan's classic hot spring destinations, the seaside town invites travellers to slow down, whether through a leisurely stroll, a soak in the onsen or simply spending time surrounded by nature.
First Impressions & Arrival
Nestled on a gentle hillside overlooking Atami, FUFU Atami captures that spirit beautifully. Surrounded by greenery and centred around private hot spring experiences, it feels designed for one purpose: helping guests disconnect from routine and settle into a slower rhythm.
Upon arriving at Atami Station, I was met by a private transfer arranged by the hotel. Within ten minutes, we arrived at FUFU Atami. Within ten minutes, we arrived at FUFU Atami. Crossing a small bridge over a gently flowing stream, it felt less like arriving at a hotel and more like stepping into a private retreat. Warm timber interiors, soft lighting and FUFU's signature floral display immediately created a sense of calm, while the attentive yet understated service reflected the quiet confidence of Japanese hospitality.
The Room
Each guestroom at FUFU Atami has its own distinct layout and character. I stayed in a Comfort Suite, a spacious retreat featuring tatami flooring, a generous living area and a private open-air onsen overlooking a bamboo garden. Rather than showcasing dramatic views, the room focuses on privacy and a close connection with nature. Looking from the living room towards the outdoor onsen bath, it often felt as though the garden had become part of the space itself.
The onsen quickly became the highlight of my stay. I found myself soaking once before bed and again the following morning, simply enjoying the sound of rustling bamboo and the absence of any need to be anywhere else. Like every suite at FUFU Atami, the suite comes with its own natural hot spring bath, making it easy to enjoy the experience entirely at your own pace.
Dining
Dinner was served in a private room at SHIRONO HITOE, where a seasonal kaiseki menu unfolded course by course. Knowing that I do not eat beef, the kitchen thoughtfully prepared alternative dishes, a gesture that felt both considerate and genuinely personal.
Several courses stood out, including a delicate foie gras chawanmushi, a rich sesame seafood hot pot and beautifully grilled mackerel. Each dish celebrated seasonal local ingredients. Breakfast followed the same philosophy. Built around freshly grilled fish, seasonal vegetables and comforting hot dishes. The English-speaking staff also took the time to explain each course, making the experience especially welcoming.
Facilities & Wellness
Beyond the private onsen, the hotel also features an open-air communal onsen bath with steam and sauna facilities. During my visit, I had the space entirely to myself, making the experience feel even more peaceful.
In the early evening, the hotel hosts a complimentary cocktail hour for guests before dinner. Rain meant that, during my stay, the drinks were served in the warmth of the hotel's bar. On most evenings, however, the gathering takes place at the rooftop bar, offering views across Atami and the sea - an appealing way to ease into the evening before dinner.
The moment I remember most was not a particular meal or amenity, but sitting quietly in the outdoor onsen as the bamboo swayed gently in the breeze.
It perfectly captured the essence of FUFU Atami. Unhurried, restorative and deeply relaxing, it offers a welcome reminder that some of the most memorable journeys are the ones that encourage us to slow down.
